Stator plate, flywheel and timing

Here's the new stator plate fitted:



To get this sitting in exactly the right position I used a timing disc rather than a dial gauge:

1. Place the flywheel onto the shaft (with the woodruff key fitted).
2. Rotate to TDC (Top Dead Centre) - the point where the piston is at the top of its travel.
3. Mark the magneto housing where the arrow is pointing.
4. Remove the flywheel and place the timing disc on the shaft. Measure the angle anti-clockwise where you want your timing to be (see manuals for advice for your engine, typically 19-23 degrees). Mark this point on the housing.
5. Put the flywheel back on, point the arrow to your timing mark and look at the two lines on the edge of the window on the flywheel. These lines should match with the two lines on the black ignition pick up. If they don't, then you make adjustments now to the stator plate position to get them to match:



I'll make final adjustments when the engine is fitted and running, by using a strobe to ensure that these do match at the firing point.

Flywheel removal

Here's a tool you can't do without, a flywheel puller. I got it from MB Developments and it's top quality.



It threads into the flywheel, and then a bolt is wound through the centre to push it out from the end of the crankshaft. There are a few methods of holding the flywheel in place while you do this. Whatever you do don't wedge something between the cooling fins, as they will break off!



I chose to insert a bar into the cylinder through the inlet port to stop the piston moving and therefore the crank turning. With hindsight I should have used a plastic or wooden object as there is a risk here of marking the cylinder or port.

When the flywheel is off you'll see the stator plate. This is held on with three set screws and is easily removed along with the wiring. Then you can remove the mag housing by undoing the three bolts and knocking it away with a wooden mallet.



Behind the mag housing you'll see the crankshaft in all its glory: