Clutch removal

Here's my cheap Indian clutch removal tool installed and in action, compressing the flange down onto the five springs.



This releases the compression on the circlip, allowing it to be removed from its position and freeing up the clutch plates. When the circlip is removed you can unscrew and remove the clutch removal tool and simply lift off the clutch plates, steel plates, flange and springs.

To continue you need to remove the 22mm nut that holds down the clutch spider and crownwheel. It is secured with a tab washer which first needs to be released. To remove the nut you need to prevent the assembly from rotating with your spanner/socket, and the best way to do this is using a clutch holder tool:



When done you can simply lift off the spider. Note that the shaft has a bearing bush on it which is easy to miss - it's just a well-fitted metal sleeve that aids rotation between the spider and crownwheel. You can now tease off the chain and lift off the large crownwheel. Finally, you should find one or more shims beneath the crownwheel on top of the end plate bearing.

This picture shows the gearbox end plate with the layshaft poking through the end plate bearing. On the bearing you can see what are two shims:

Flywheel removal

Here's a tool you can't do without, a flywheel puller. I got it from MB Developments and it's top quality.



It threads into the flywheel, and then a bolt is wound through the centre to push it out from the end of the crankshaft. There are a few methods of holding the flywheel in place while you do this. Whatever you do don't wedge something between the cooling fins, as they will break off!



I chose to insert a bar into the cylinder through the inlet port to stop the piston moving and therefore the crank turning. With hindsight I should have used a plastic or wooden object as there is a risk here of marking the cylinder or port.

When the flywheel is off you'll see the stator plate. This is held on with three set screws and is easily removed along with the wiring. Then you can remove the mag housing by undoing the three bolts and knocking it away with a wooden mallet.



Behind the mag housing you'll see the crankshaft in all its glory:

Rear hub removal

First off you need to remove the screw that holds the locking washer in place. This came out surprisingly easy on mine. You can then prise off the washer....

...to allow us to undo the main hub nut.

This bit would probably have been easier had I loosened it before removing the engine from the bike, as there would have been natural resistance against the spanner. I'll remember this next time. The hub nut, unlike the flywheel, is a normal thread. The nut is bigger than 24mm (the biggest socket in my set) so I had to use my trusty adjustable spanner. I rested the end of the spanner on the vice, and gently tapped the hub round with a mallet and some wood.  

Once the main nut is removed you can insert your hub puller into the three threaded holes in the hub.

I was let down here by a cheap tool - my hub puller failed on me. It was a simple design poorly executed, comprising a steel disc with a nut 'welded' to the centre to allow a bolt to be threaded through. The problem was the weld was more of a braze, and the join gave way when put under tension, resulting in the nut coming away from the disc. The lesson here is don't buy cheap rubbish from ebay, and when you buy a puller go for a well designed one.

So, I resorted to the more traditional method - the mallet. The risk here is that you might damage something. Mine came away undamaged with the second strike, revealing even more how poor my tool was as the hub obviously wasn't siezed on.

The right tools

Getting the right tools for the job is essential for a hassle-free rebuild. They are all cheap, especially if you don't go for professional quality, which would be overkill for a DIYer looking to do a few rebuilds over the lifespan of the tool.

Here you can see the more unusual tools I'll be using on the Lambretta (click to zoom in):

From left to right we have:

Fork Spanners

To remove your forks. I got these from Resurrection Scooters - they seem very good quality.

Clutch Holder

To hold the clutch while replacing it. Made in India. Very cheap but perfectly good from Fanatic Scooters.

Inner Wire Plier

I bought these from Wheelies. Once you've adjusted your gear or brake cables using these you'll wonder what you did without them!

Clutch Compressor

To compress the clutch spring during removal and replacement. Made in India. Very cheap but perfectly good from Fanatic Scooters.

Rear Hub Puller

Got it off ebay. Designed to remove the rear wheel hub with ease, and a lot more portable than a generic 3-armed gear/hub puller

Wheel Lift Prop Stand

For lifting the rear wheel off the ground during removal. I have to confess I've yet to work out how this is actually used :)

Spark Plug Spanner

Do I need to explain? Other than that removing the plug without one of these is nigh-on impossible!

Apologies for the dirty kitchen worktop - I should have given a good wipe before taking this photo!