Front wheel not central?

My new outboard disc hub wasn't sitting central in my forks, it was about 9mm off. I don't have a photo because I was too annoyed to take one.

I couldn't work out why this might be, and a bit of googling only led me to one theory that I had a bent fork link. I can't possibly imagine a scenario where a fork link might get bent. If your fork link was exposed, in situ, to enough force to bend it then other things would bend or break first, surely?

With this in mind I dismantled it again and found the culprit. In the photo below you can see uneven wear on the face around the edge of the bush. The face has worn to the rear of the link (the top in this photo), but not at the front. This causes the link to sit at an angle when fitted to the forks.

The fix is simple. I filed the rest of the face in line with the wear so that the face was perpendicular to the bush/bolt that holds it in place. Then to compensate for the loss of width I doubled-up with another cup on this side, as not very clearly shown in this photo. You could also use a large penny washer under the cup.

While I'm on the topic of fitting the front hub, an important part of fitting your front hub assembly is using the right axle washers. They ensure that the hub sits exactly where its supposed to be but are more importantly a critical safety feature which will hold your wheel in place even if your main nut becomes a bit loose.

It's all back together now, and I'm pleased to say it sits perfectly in the middle!

New fork springs

I wasn't happy with the seemingly different performance of the old fork springs, so with the forks still in place on the scoot I dropped out the old ones and treated them to new uprated springs and rods as seen below.



These compliment the new link bolts, cups, bushes and buffers already fitted:



With the hub and the dampers in place, this is how its looking:

Taking shape

The engine looks great prior to refit with all its new shiny bits:





and now it was time to hang it back on the frame, along with the rebuilt forks complete with new bushes, buffers, cups and bolts...



The front hub is not bolted in yet, and it's interesting to see that the bike leaned to the left at the front (or the wheel to the right) as though the left spring was compressing more easily than the right spring. I'm going to investigate this a little further as I may have to replace the springs and rods with new ones to ensure I have a fork that's behaving properly.

Rattle-can spraying

This is no show-vehicle, so I've opted to use an aerosol for the few parts that need it. I stripped the forks with Nitromors paint stripper and a wire brush. A few coats of high-build primer followed the next day by a sand and then a few coats of Silver/Metallic Grey did the job:



And the new cross member looks a lot better after just one coat of primer:

A professional weld

I think I found the best way to find a good welder, short of personal recommendations. I chucked the Lammy in the back of the car and drove round the corner to the nearest backstreet car workshop and asked them. They sent me round the corner to another workshop, and a guy called Gary. It was 9am, and he said he'd have it finished by 2pm and it would cost only fifteen quid.

I'm pleased to report he did an excellent job:






and he did my damper mounts at the same time:



Now I can start rebuilding!

Forks out

With the proper fork nut spanners, removing the forks was easy. The steering felt really good on this bike and I actually considered not removing the forks. But I'm glad I did, look at the condition of the bearings that came out: