ScootRS tubeless rims - a safety warning about chrome rubber-type valves

Yesterday I received this email from ScootRS:

"> Hi. We are recommending that anyone using a CHROME rubber-type tubeless tire valve change it to a non-chrome (brass) valve. Over many years we have only seen a couple valves come apart at the stem, one with a non-standard cap, so it may just be random but they were CHROME rubber ones so possibly the chrome reacted to road salts, or some such thing. We included this type with some of our tubeless rims before, so we are sending this note to you. Of course the same recommendation applies to ones obtained elsewhere. This is ONLY about a valve of the following flexible rubber type AND ONLY if CHROME - not the brass color shown here: http://scootrs.com/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=1661 If you have a CHROME one: change it to the exact same type shown in the photo - brass color, non-chrome. These are standard valves available at any tire shop or from us. If you have a brass one already or different type: don't do anything. You should replace old valves when changing tires, or if leaving tires on for years, but if you haven't done so yet and you have a CHROME rubber valve on one of our tubeless rims, you can change it without removing your tire. Let the air out, push the tire over, and the valve can be replaced. It is much easier to let a tire shop handle it, but if you need a replacement valve, let us know and we can send you some. To avoid misinformation, please note: - this is NOT related to our tubeless rims at all. Our current v.3 design was released in 2006 and has earned a PERFECT record on both the road and track, greatly enhancing rider safety over regular rims by preventing blowouts. We have always included valves as an extra at no charge and simply included this chrome rubber type on some rims before. Our apologies if any actual problem has since appeared with that type. - there is NO problem at all with any other valves, especially the same rubber tubeless type but non-chrome. (Older bolt-in type valves are OK too, even if chrome. Do NOT change this chrome bolt-in type: http://scootrs.com/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=1189) Again, there may not be any problem at all with the CHROME rubber valves either, this is a very rare occurrence we've seen, but we are recommending you change them to non-chrome. Cheers. Customer service~ http://scootRS.com"

Allow me to translate. If you've got one of these (see below) in chrome then change it. Brass ones are ok. Chrome bolt-in ones are ok.

While we're on the subject, I should add that after 500km my rims have proved great. The only small problem I had was slow deflation on the rear tyre. This was due to the valve core not being fully screwed in, probably by the tyre fitter. I bought one of these cheap valve core tools and tightened it up, and it's been fine ever since:

Front wheel not central?

My new outboard disc hub wasn't sitting central in my forks, it was about 9mm off. I don't have a photo because I was too annoyed to take one.

I couldn't work out why this might be, and a bit of googling only led me to one theory that I had a bent fork link. I can't possibly imagine a scenario where a fork link might get bent. If your fork link was exposed, in situ, to enough force to bend it then other things would bend or break first, surely?

With this in mind I dismantled it again and found the culprit. In the photo below you can see uneven wear on the face around the edge of the bush. The face has worn to the rear of the link (the top in this photo), but not at the front. This causes the link to sit at an angle when fitted to the forks.

The fix is simple. I filed the rest of the face in line with the wear so that the face was perpendicular to the bush/bolt that holds it in place. Then to compensate for the loss of width I doubled-up with another cup on this side, as not very clearly shown in this photo. You could also use a large penny washer under the cup.

While I'm on the topic of fitting the front hub, an important part of fitting your front hub assembly is using the right axle washers. They ensure that the hub sits exactly where its supposed to be but are more importantly a critical safety feature which will hold your wheel in place even if your main nut becomes a bit loose.

It's all back together now, and I'm pleased to say it sits perfectly in the middle!

ScootRS tubeless rims

Tubeless rims reduce (or do they eliminate?) the risk of a blow-out. A compelling reason, so I bought some from ScootRS in Vietnam. They arrived in good time and well packaged, although I got stung for an extra ten quid by Fedex for some kind of unpaid customs taxes.

The rims are nicely made, and if you read about them on the web you'll learn that they're popular, but are difficult for the tyre-fitter. This proved true for mine, and they didn't escape fully unscathed. If you're a perfectionist or you've bought some chrome ones you probably won't be happy, as you either won't want to or won't be able to touch up the near-inevitable marks.

Regardless of this, I think they're great, and with Schwalbe Weathermans on they look great too:





These 100/90 tyres are 10mm wider than the crappy old Indian tyres, and the differences in width, shape and footprint are neatly demonstrated below by my son Bill, who gets excited about literally anything with wheels and so a stack of wheels was a dream come true.



And in a state of my own excitement I couldn't resist offering up my hydraulic disc and hub unit. More on that in a future post...